The village of Gatzea stretches from the sea to the hill-top monastery of Agia Triada. Ano (Upper) Gatzea is in the centre of the main olive growing area, catching the sea breezes. There is a small local museum which can tell you all you ever wanted to know about traditional olive production.
Fine and not-so-fine dining.
There is one café in the upper village, a traditional “ouzo restaurant” and a taverna.
The café immediately behind the house, run by Georgos and Maria, caters for local farmers who gather to moan about the price of olive oil. It serves hearty, simple fare using produce from Georgos’s dad’s farm, on an “eat what we’ve cooked” basis; inimitable home made wine and excellent home-distilled ouzo of unverifiable alcoholic content. Georgos will also rustle you up a breakfast if you let him know the evening before.
For something a little more classy, Angeliko, the popular taverna in the main square (150m) serves a good selection of a la carte dishes.
Shops and supplies
Kato (Lower) Gatzea (1km) has a variety of shops – and outstanding bakery; a mini market and a pharmacy – a delightful sea front, with waterside eateries and bars. It does not, though, have a money machine, so you may want to stock up with cash before you arrive.
There are also travelling vans selling vegetables (every day); fish (a few times a week); slippers and trousers for the un-fashion conscious (most weeks) and even chickens, manure and Cretan terracotta pots (occasionally).
For the freshest fish of all, a short drive to Kala Nera (2 km) and you can buy the catch directly from the boats, provided you get there before about ten o’clock in the morning.